Dries Van Noten Fall 2012 RTW

Dries van noten

There's no shortage of Asian influences this season, but it's apparent Dries aimed higher (in rank) than anyone else. Leave it to Dries to deconstruct, then disseminate, a swath of ancient Chinese imperial embroidery previously only fit (and not to mention, only legal) to adorn an Emperor of China.

To breathe some 21st century light into the old digs, he drafted the longpao's nine golden dragons, swirls of clouds and rolling frothy waves to grace silken flowing frocks, one slithering beautifully under an ambient green parka, to emblazon mannish boxy blazers with upturned collars and perhaps most poignantly, to decorate a sharply tailored overcoat, insouciantly brushed aside by a single hand in pocket.

The latter did infer a smidgen of regality, but for the most part the designer took the imperial dress and removed much of the stiff grandeur associated with royal costume, delivering a lineup of coherent, relevant looks in true Dries-like fashion.

Slouchy bottoms and side slitted crewneck sweaters took the edge off almost militant, straight cut blazers, and double black-on-black bottoms added more fuel to the fire that is skirts over pants for Fall (see Prada, Louis Vuitton, etc). All of this carried in slick pumps patterned with painterly burning embers or pastel reptilia and neatly trimmed, calf hair lace-ups.

Pickachoose: Fall 2012 RTW

Marc Jacobs

It seems critics have never had as much fun as they did during Marc Jacob's Fall showing, where the decided lack of restraint unleashed a colourful army of parading Mad Hatters, running amock the runway each with a hat more curious, more gigantic and more topsy-turvy than the next. Total absurdity at it's best; the Cat in the Hat would approve.

All the kookiness is juxtaposed (and complemented accordingly) with a deceptively simple bag. Bare and basic, erring on the side of androgyny but saved from completely entering that realm by the smooth, subtle curves. It could serve to anchor a feminine look yet also fall in place with something more urban, with more edge. Personal translation: I'm not a bag person and I adore this bag.

altuzarra

Elements distilled from the traditional costumes of Northeastern Asian tribes were beautifully reinterpreted for today's urban woman, maintaining the vivacity and cold climate-propriety of its source of inspiration. At certain points, Altuzarra seemed to deviate albeit too far from his central story, one being the dip in Catholic territory. However the tassled over-the-knee boot, whether smooth, croc or embossed, were a superb fixture, whether adding a lengthy end to voluminous pants or subduing the overt sexiness of thigh high slits.

aquilano.rimondi

The duo behind Aquilano.Rimondi managed (with admittedly greater success) to weave the Catholic symbolism and rich colour palette of the Middle Ages into traditional Asian garb, more specifically the Chinese cheongsam. The result is impressively natural, with one influence counterbalancing any obvious overtones of the other. More importantly, they were able to acheive something neither dated nor tacky, seemingly the two greatest challenges when redesigning a piece of such distinct cultural and historical background. The accompanying footwear was charmingly sweet, especially the gilded-trim pumps adorned with a flouncy silk bow.

Burberry Prorsum Fall 2012 RTW

By now it seems Christopher Bailey has perfected his formula for Burberry Prorsum: one show, one silhouette and a steadfast focus on a small handful of elements, infusing them beautifully into every look and rarely straying from the course. The result is a collection that allows for a great deal of mix-and-match, affording a luxurious sense of flexibility. For this coming fall, the proposed silhouette is a nipped waist followed by an

inflated hip, carried in an admixture of tweed and herringbone, punctuated with bow belts and animal artifacts. The latter is especially endearing, with wild birds and familiar canines adorning tees, clutches and even umbrella handles, lending a playful edge to the plethora of highly feminine detailing and immaculately structured jackets.

Prada Fall 2012 RTW

Prada's 2012 Fall show induced flashbacks to Miu Miu's 2010 collections, what with the reiteration of the patterned chunky Mary-Jane, the elaborate, magnified beadwork (which from far looks almost arthropodal) and the crisp yet softened cut of the all-black wool ensembles. Upon revisiting these ideas however, Miuccia managed to reappropriate these themes previously meant for une belle fille and make them all the more suitable for une belle femme. The longer hems and more streamlined silhouettes steared this collection towards Prada's more seasoned audience, although by no means did Miuccia

exercise austerity in her designs. The wealth of geometric patterns will have your eyes darting frenetically, only resting to admire the smooth, classic bags featured in buttery chocolate brown and brushed mustard yellow. The diamond, hexagonal motif suits are akin to peering into a psychedelic kaleidoscope, the image only broken up by a miniscule peek of a white collar. The whole collection is nicely contrasted by a simple, slicked back hairstyle and please note the inextricably fun and kooky 60's sunglasses, especially the pair of reimagined Lennon style spectators.